Taulman 3D’s Bridge Nylon Filament was recently released. As its name indicates it bridges the excellent qualities of other nylon filaments with the lower cost and ease of use found in more common filaments such as ABS and PLA.
Unlike other Nylon filaments, this one can be printed on glass, with a thin coat of PVA glue. Bed adhesion and warping challenges have been significantly reduced. This filament also absorbs much less moisture than previous nylon filaments.
Purchase the Taulman Bridge Nylon Filament HERE.
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Hello, Your reviews on the Flashforge Creator X and Taulman 3D’s new Bridge Nylon filament are very helpful. Thank you so much. Would you please help me for the following questions?
The Bridge Nylon material needs 240C to print and how high the Creator X extruder’s can be set? Is it 230C?
When you print the Bridge Nylon, what kind of supporting material are you using? Thank you so much in advance. tobby
Hi, Tobby. The Creator and Creator X use MK8 extruders. The specs on those say that the normal operating temperature is 190-230C, but they also say the maximum temperature is 280C. You can see that here: http://www.amazon.com/Printer-Nozzle-Extruder-Latest-Upgrade/dp/B00HIDR4LU
I run mine at 240C for days on end and haven’t had any problems. Of course, there’s always a chance something could go wrong, so doing this is at your own risk, but it should work fine.
Hi Jeremy,
What fantastic results! That’s one beautifully printed part. I myself recently acquired some Bridge filament and I’ve been trying to use it with my Flashforge Dreamer. I’m pretty new to the whole 3D-printing endeavour, but I’ve found that when I print Bridge, particularly above 240 degrees C, I get a lot of stringy residue left all over the model; it seems that when the nozzle travels from one area to another, it “dribbles” a trail of Nylon. This has pretty much ruined all of my prints so far; I was wondering if you had any advice? I’m feeding the filament at (from memory) 40mm/s and the travel speed is 60mm/s. Layer depth is 0.15mm.
What’s more, the supports are sticking to the model and are very difficult to remove. I’ve been printing at lower and lower temperatures to try to mitigate this (just finished a part at 230 degrees nozzle temperature, which worked surprisingly well but still left strings and very persistent supports). I noticed with your print you just snapped the supports clean off; maybe it’s a result of the Slic3r software I’m using. I don’t suppose you have any thoughts on these issues?
The first thing I’d try is increasing your retraction values. Most slicing software uses a default of around 1mm for retraction, but Bridge seems to do better with retraction of around 5 or 6mm. That should take care of most of the stringing you’re seeing. It may also help with the supports, but there may be other settings for that. I use Simplify3D, which allows you to specify the number of layers of separation between the support and the print. I don’t recall whether Slic3r includes that option, but if it does, you could try increasing that value a bit too.
Good luck!
Jeremy
I am using PVA for the nylon bridge and its still warping. The PVA turns rubbery and the prints pull up. Any suggestions?
You’re probably using too much PVA. Just put a small amount on the glass, then use a wet paper towel to spread it around into a very thin layer, which should dry completely clear as the glass heats up.